"Sublety and understatement are the hallmarks of Kathrin von Rechenberg's style, combined with the technical excellence and meticulous attention to detail that are evident in every shaped, supple garment produced in her Beijing atelier."

 

Originally from Munich, Kathrin von Rechenberg was trained under top Paris couturiers such as Jean-Louis Scherrer, Emanuelle Khan, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, and Chanel.

 

The timeless elegance in her own designs is evident from every aspect of her creations from the use of precious fabrics to every single piece handmade with traditional handiwork. 

 

Her label's signature fabric is tea silk, a rare and unique fabric tradition dating back to the Ming dynasty. The creation process alone is a 30-40 step process used with organic plant ingredients and uses nature's very own water, sun, and sand to create it's natural luster, that only becomes more beautiful with time.

 

Having her own label in Beijing for nearly a decade, Kathrin von Rechenberg most recently released her Spring/Summer 2010 Collection at The Opposite House at Sanlitun, Beijing this past April.

 

LumDimSum Gets Behind-the-Scenes with Couturier Designer Kathrin von Rechenberg

 

 

LumDimSum (LDS): What originally inspired you to become a designer?

 

I've always loved to create things. Not only clothes. My father and grandfather were both sculptors so I started when I was young, and I created many things - hats, book covers, I have always liked to work with paper and fabric. 

 

LDS: During your time in Paris, you worked under various Paris Couturiers such as Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix, and Chanel.  Under which designer was the most memorable and why? 

 

Gilles Rosier. At the time I worked with him, he had for his own label, after which he succeeded Kenso Takada. Before I worked with this label, I had only worked in big coutouriers, and I found it more interesting to work in a smaller company because I had been given more responsibility.

 

Working with bigger design labels like Christian Dior, you only have your own specific work to do and you don't get to oversee the entire process.  While Gilles Rosier did his own designs, I was involved in all the fittings with the models and the final product outcome.  This experience was most valuable because it was important for me to learn how to create my own brand.

 

I have always wanted my own brand.  I started with handcraft because I like to work with my own hands and I did this all because the goal was always to have my own label.  Now I have been here nearly ten years.

 

LDS: How has your style developed over the years?

 

I do not follow mainstream fashion trends. My own style is more flattering. 

 

At the beginning, I was obsessed with working like a sculptor, thinking of fashion as more of an artwork.  I was so focused on straight lines and technique, but now I concentrate on the female body form and how clothing should fit the shape of a woman.

 

While my style seemed more abstract before, now I am closer to my own clients' needs.

 

LDS: When you design your collections, what type of woman do you have in mind? 

 

Someone like me - someone who is active in life, maybe she has children while also balancing a full-time job.  Someone who doesn't have time to go home, someone who doesn't have time to think about what she will wear. An active woman who knows what she wants out of life.  My style is not for very young girls, but more for mature women, who has her plate full and knows exactly what she wants.

 

LDS: What are three signature characteristics that set your label apart from the rest?

 

1.    The material

2.    Form/shape of my clothing

3.    I use only 100% natural material. Nothing synthetic or stretch. Most of my clothes can be worn inside-out and the craftsmanship behind each article of clothing is very essential. 

 

It's very important to also focus on the quality of my label, which may not so obvious to the untrained eye. The excellence of the clothing is understated; it does not showing off.  The finishing of the clothing is much more work than embroidery somewhere.  My label is designed for people who understand good quality.

 

For example, sometimes when some people see fagating stitching, they think it's not finished, but rather it is a different style of stitching that requires very close attention to detail.

 

LDS: When did you first discover vintage tea silk fabric and when did you first decide to make it your signature fabric?

 

It really was love at first sight. 

 

I have a friend who is a Taiwanese fashion designer, who I met at design school in Paris and began working with her several times on her collections in Taiwan as her modelist. 

 

LDS:  What is it about tea-silk that has made it your signature fabric?

 

It's everything really. Tea Silk has a very distinct touch, it makes a specific crisp sound, and it even has a particular smell. And because of it's natural creation process with the dyes drying in the sun, the final product produces various shades of black.

 

The fabric is thin, but with style it gets heavy. It has a quality similar to paper, and I have always loved to work with paper and fabrics. 

 

LDS: Making tea silk is such a long and laborious 30-step process.  Can you tell me about this process? Have you personally seen it made before?  

 

Silk can also be known as mud silk since it is made with a specific type of mud found in the Pearl River in Hong Kong.  I have been there and have made special requests for my tea silk. 

 

Normally it takes about one week to make the fabric, but once the fabric is dyed, I need to keep it for three years before you can wash it and actually start to wear it (otherwise the color will just wash out). 

 

Like aged wine, the older the fabric it is, the better quality it is. The fabric I'm wearing now is more than twenty years. 

 

LDS: What advice can you give to aspiring designers?

 

There are many things they need to learn first about design. They really need to understand the proper techniques. They need to understand the clothes and how the clothes need to be cut and worn.    

 

Everything I create is hand-stitched, I do not use a sewing machine. 

 

The meaning of coutierier is actually a seamstress.  I work as a coutierier as I have my own design and label, but I work as they once did in the 50's, where I design a collection and then we tailor make our collection pieces to our client's specific measurements. 

 

LDS: What is the most valuable advice someone has given you?

 

I met a Brazilian designer in Paris named Gustavo Lins, who is sold in the best places in Paris and like me, he started out as a modelist, someone who designs clothes on a dress form, working like a sculptor. 

 

He once told me not to take things so seriously, that you need to have fun when you are creating your collections.  It may not have been the most important advice in my life, but it has stuck out in my memory.

LDS:  If you were not a designer, what would you be doing?

 

I would be doing a lot of music.  Playing the flute. 

 

LDS: Top dining destinations in Beijing?

 

Very Siam. They deliver here to our yard since they are our neighbors. 

We also love the Orchard. 

[Read more from LumDimSum]

 

Everyone in the west is starting to hear the chimes of China. The other day we overheard people talking about how many young companies are springing up. However, quality, professionalism, and delivery are hard to find at times in the concrete jungles of Beijing. You gotta hustle to make your mark. 360Fashion recently worked together with the Street Hustle event company in Beijing and were impressed with the delivery. We met up after the event with Matthew Arnett, Executive Officer of the company, and asked him about his experience in China and what he's been hustling lately.



INTERVIEW WITH MATTHEW ARNETT / STREET HUSTLE

Q: What made you start a company in China? 

China's a bit like the wild west. Because everything is so new and developing so fast, everything's wild and untamed here. That doesn't mean just risk, but also huge opportunity and potential. With so much getting started, there's a lot of room to establish a company here to my own ideal, rather than fitting into a locale with an established way of doing things. People think of China as an old-fashioned country, but in many ways the new China is a place where new things happen. 

Q: What brought you here? How did you end up in Beijing and how long have you been suspect here? 

Seeing that China was the future of things. Everyone feels like China is the next big place to take over entertainment. It's going to be the next superpower, so I wanted to get a head start.  Right now in Beijing, the entertainment is underdeveloped, and I felt like I could nurture. I have a lot of opportunity to create something like that. It's not like Shanghai, which has a much more developed infrastructure. 

I came here in 2005 for a conference and Will took me out. And just because of the night life, I decided that I would come back and live. Beijing's night life is really on another level. I was so inspired that I came back in 2006 to work.

 

Q: How did you open a company? Was it a grueling process?  

Starting a business from the ground up requires a lot of hard work and dedication, but I didn't name it "Street Hustle" for nothing. Everyone on board from day one is here to hustle and give all there is to give to the job.  

It can be especially tough in the beginning because our thought from day one when we went to meetings with club owners, concert promoters, and other big companies was: let us prove to you what we can do first, then we'll talk about a contract. Let us throw a party, let us show how big of a crowd we can draw, how wild we can make the party, and then let's talk. Our bets paid off when show time came, but it did make for a tough beginning.

Q: How do you cope with doing business in China? 

Doing business in a vastly different culture is harder than hopping on a flight. So I am used to reminding myself often to be patient and understand that there are different ways of doing things over here. My motto for working with partners is that it only seems like we have conflicts until we both just communicate what we need. I find over and over again that simple communication solves most problems.

Q: What are the elements of success in China? 

In China right now, there's a great space for innovation. If you've got a great idea, you can come here to try it out and make it big. The only catch is that it will probably come with more cross-cultural hurdles than you can imagine, so you'll have to add a dose of perseverance.

Q: Is your plan long term here in China? 

Street Hustle is a global idea, of which China is a part. Street Hustle will be in Beijing to stay, and plans are in the oven for expansion. If expansion takes me across the world, so be it. But Beijing will always have a place in my heart. 

Q: What do you think about the Chinese party scene? Why do Chinese and westerners not mix?

People sitting at home across the ocean probably imagine the Chinese party scene to be as boring as a trip to grandma's, but they're dead wrong. Back in the US, most bars and clubs are legally required to shut by 2AM. Here, the party goes right on through the morning. In Beijing, some clubs don't really get started until 3 in the morning, when clubs back in the States would be long since shut.  

Chinese and Westerners definitely have different styles of partying, but that doesn't mean they don't mix. Hip hop is an American phenomenon, but check the dance floor at Club LA any night of the week, and you'll see Chinese people enjoying themselves just as much as Westerners.   

 

Ying Shea, Celebrates with her partners China Doll's 1 YEAR Anniversary!  360Fashion interviews this top fashion and technology fusion in Beijing, China. We ask Ying Shea questions for all women who wish to achieve a full career and family. Ying Shea gives us advice for how to navigate the masculine world of business and remain glamourus, fashionable, and professional. We thank Mrs. Shea for taking a moment in her very busy day, to give us tips and insight into what we can do to encourage other women to enter the technology field.

Q1: It's not common to find women in high powered technology positions. How did you get to be the executive director of Cisco China?

很难发现女性在科技领域能够做到这么高的位置,你是怎么成为思科中国的执行总监的? 

 

A1: It is relatively uncommon for women to be in higher positions than men, particularly in tech sector, whether it is in China or elsewhere in the world.  But like many things, this is changing. There are more and more women in higher positions as a result of many changes in society: such as equal opportunities policies, more women entering science majors at universities. 

相对来说对女性来说很难做到比 男性更高的位置,特别是在科技领域,不管是在中国还是在世界别的国家.但是就像很多事情一样,总是有改变的.因为社会的改变,更多的女性有更高的位置,比如说社会均等的机会,大学里更多女性学习理科. 

 

As in any other sector, to advance in your career, you need to work hard, be a team player and conduct yourself with high integrity. The sense of achievement coming from making a meaningful contribution is more important than any titles.

不管在哪个领域,想在行业里领先,都需要努力工作,团队合作,还要有很高的诚信度.成就感来自你你做的有意义的贡献,这比职位更重要.

Q2: What does it take to become an executive director of a tech company?

您是怎么成为一个科技公司的总监的?

 

A2: As answered above, you need to know what it is that is required and measured for what you do and then make a plan to do it and follow through on your commitment and take initiatives and seek regular feedback from people around you. Be accountable for your own actions and never take credit of colleague's work.

你需要根据要求来看自己能做什么,然后计划好去执行,坚持你的承诺,主动积极,从周围的人得到反馈.对自己做的事情负责, 不把同事的工作成绩归功于自己.

Q3: Do you ever feel outnumbered by men?

你有没有觉得男性同事太多?

 

A3: Never felt outnumbered by men. If anything, it offers one a sense of accomplishment to be among men in a traditionally men's world.

不会的,会有成就感,处在一个传统的以男性为主的世界.

Q4: What first interested you in technology?

你是怎么对科技感兴趣的?

A4: No one specially, but as we see technology is an important element of our daily life, it is hard not to take an interest in it.  Technology has changed the way we live, work, study and play. Technology has made the world more productive than ever. 

因为科技是我们生活很重要的一部分,很难不感兴趣.科技改变了我们的生活,工作,学习和娱乐.科技让这个世界更加多产.

 

Q5: Why do you think there are not a lot of women interested in technology? What is missing to attract them?

为什么你觉得不是很多女性对科技都感兴趣?为什么吸引不了她们?

 

A5: Technology and women does seem to be at odds a little. Most people think of technology as hard, unfashionable, unglamorous, which is true to some extent, but technology is very sexy in that it is creative and innovative, and when technology and consumer interest marries well, it is very hot... You have seen the storm iPhone generated, or blackberry.

科技和女性是有一点不一致.很多人认为科技很难,不时尚,不光彩照人,某种程度上是这样,但是科技非常有创造性,当科技和顾客的兴趣达到一致的时候,很棒...比如黑莓和 iPhone.

 

 I think what we need is to have technology integrates more with fashion, and creates the image of technology is hot, and also educations women when they are young, that technology is not just for the nerdy, and that there is great future for a girl in a men's world. Why do you think there are not a lot of women in executive positions in companies? Why are there more women in lower positions such as marketing or secretaries?

我想科技需要和时尚更加结合.科技是对男性社会里的女性来说是很有前途的.为什么在公司管理层就不能有女性呢?为什么女性就该处在营销和秘书的职位呢?

Q6: What needs to happen to change this?

怎么才能改变呢?

 

A6: Education, Education, Education...plus positive media and press...

教育,教育,教育....还有积极的媒体宣传

Q7: You are a co-founder in the nightclub China Doll. What made you found a nightclub?

你也是夜总会China Doll的合伙人,怎么想到成立夜总会呢?

 

A7:  I wanted to create a place where culture, music, arts and technology are interwoven seamlessly to offer people a new kind of entertainment experience, the art of play.

我想有个地方是文化,音乐,艺术和科技并存,能够给人们带去娱乐体验和艺术感.

 

Q8: China Doll was recently redesigned. Tell us about the interior.

最近刚装修,能告诉我们以下内部设计吗?

 

A8: The interior of the club focuses on the fusion of art, technology and lifestyle, and it is the place where people can enjoy night life with style and comfort.

内部结合了艺术,科技和生活.人们在那里可以享受到品质和舒适的夜生活.

 

 

 

360Fashion Exclusive Interview with Warren Lucas,General Manager of Aqua Restaurant Group Beijing , Beijing, China.

360时尚在中国北京独家采访北京Aqua集团总经理Warren Lucas.

Q1: Tell us about the Fez Bar?

请给我们介绍一下这个酒吧?

 

A1: Step on to the open-air rooftop terrace at Fez Bar and you are transported to a scene from "The Tales of A Thousand and One Nights". Swathed in deep maroon canvas tents, twinkling with soft lighting from the traditional Moroccan burnished brass lamps straight from the Souk.

步入位于屋顶阳台的Fez室外酒吧，瞬间时空转换，感觉仿佛置身于"一千零一夜"的故事画面。层层叠叠的深栗色帐幔之内，传统的摩洛哥纯铜吊灯摇曳生姿，闪烁着或明或暗的彩色光影，映衬出性感妩媚的Fez吧，令人一见倾心。

Immediately upon arrival you will be captivated by the sultry spirit of Fez. Nestle down with your companions in the comfort of your own private tent, surrounded by plump cushions, and relax and feast on the scene. Fez Bar has wonderful views across the historic Ch'ien Men 23 quadrangle with buildings dating back to 1904. Late night when it's hot, stroll over to the Moroccan mosaic pool and dip your toes in the cool water trickling from the fountains.

在属于自己的帐幔中，与同来好友舒舒服服地安顿下来，在松软的靠垫中尽情地欣赏四周美景，恣意放松。Fez吧拥有完美视角，俯看历史悠久的前门23号院落中建于1904年的古建筑。若夜己深，而热情愈烧愈旺，何不到撒满玫瑰花瓣的摩洛哥彩陶喷泉边上坐坐，把脚趾伸向冰冰的喷射水柱，凉快一下！

 Fez Bar opens for al-fresco lounging at 6pm until late, 7 days from April through the summer. Fez Bar is a versatile venue ideal for pre-dinner signature cocktails, after-dinner nightcap and late night lounging with friends or business associates. It is the perfect spot for upscale parties and exclusive events under the stars with features such as a dance floor and a DJ booth incorporated in the layout.

Fez吧自3月中旬起，每日6点开始向客人提供露天休闲服务，直至深夜。Fez吧功能多样，既是享用餐前鸡尾酒的理想选择，亦可供餐后小酌，或在入夜后与三五好友相聚，与业务伙伴密谈。Fez吧还是举办奢华派对及高级活动的最佳场所，清朗的星空下，伴随着灯光迷离的舞池与创意无限的DJ台，你想怎样设计自己的派对？ 

 Within the same building as Fez Bar are three other super sleek concepts from the Aqua Restaurant Group who have some of the most cutting edge restaurants and bars in Hong Kong, Beijing and soon in Europe. Shiro Matsu, a stunning contemporary Japanese restaurant; Agua, a stylish upscale Spanish restaurant and tapas bar with a magnificent outdoor terrace; and Hex Bar, a stylish pre-dinner and late night lounge bar.

与Fez吧一起，在同一建筑内，另有三家超炫的概念餐饮店，同属 David Yeo的 Aqua餐饮集团，该集团在香港，北京及欧洲经营着最前卫时髦的餐厅及酒吧。Shiro Matsu, 是一家令人叹为观止的现代派日本料理店，由David Yeo本人及有理由被誉为当今日本最好的餐厅设计师的Yukio Hashimoto设计；Agua，是一个风格独特的高档西班牙餐厅及Tapas小吃吧，拥有美丽舒适的露天观景用餐阳台；Hex 酒吧，正餐前喝上一杯或是夜晚放松畅饮皆相宜的时尚好去处。 

 

Q2: Who started it?

谁创办的?

A2: David Yeo and Richard Ward, owners of the famous aqua restaurant group from Hong Kong,

David Yeo和 Richard Ward的 Aqua餐饮集团，该集团在香港

 

 

Q3: What's the intention of the Fez Bar?

酒吧的目的是什么?

A3: Fez Bar is designed to provide a sublime, romantic and relaxed lounge bar atmosphere in the heart of Beijing.

Fez Bar是想提供一个夜晚浪漫休闲放松畅饮皆相宜的时尚好去处.

 

Q4: Why did you pick this location for the bar?

为什么选在这个地方?

 

A4: The location for the bar was chosen when the legation quarter development (the former American embassy) in Beijing was redeveloped as a unique lifestyle and entertainment complex.

是因为北京原美国使馆重新规划成了一个北京最高档的餐饮与夜生活的聚集之地

 

Q5: Who designed the interior? 

谁是室内设计师?

 

A5: David Yeo

 

360Fashion Exclusive Interview with RAY P. LEE, co-founder of Chopshop Concept Store, Beijing, China.

360时尚在中国北京独家采访Chopshop 创意店的合伙创始人RAY P. LEE.

Q: Tell me about your store
     请给我介绍一下您店的情况

R: The store is in the 798 art district, known for its art galleries and museums but not anchored YET as a destination for retail. We're introducing designers not yet represented on the mainland, designers we know, designers we like, its very personal.这个店位于以艺术画廊和博物馆著称但还不是零售集中地的798艺术区.我们在大陆介绍我们认识或我们喜欢的设计师.

R: Myself and Lin Jing, arguably China's most renowned product designer, so we are the two creatives. We do all the merchandising, the buying, the concept and then we have a couple of silent partners who operate the business side of the operations.我和Lin Jing(中国最著名的产品设计师),我们是2个创意主义者.我们负责所有进货和创意.除此之外,我们还有一些幕后的合伙人负责商业上的运作.

Q: First opening or relaunch?
  第一次开店还是再经营？

R: Yes it's a relaunch. It was previously more a gallery space for design and to highlight Lin Jings work. But a new direction was decided upon and I was brought in as a partner to side saddle with LinJing on the creative and inject a more international perspective.算是二次经营了.之前更像是设计画廊用来展览Lin Jing的作品.然后我们确定了一个新的方向,我们增加了更多创意和加入了更多国际思维.

R: Well, I think the customer is quite varied. It's for kids, hipsters, fashionistas, socialites, no specific, our target aims across the spectrum. Our price points are really competitive and most are one-off pieces.我想顾客群体很多样.有孩子,赶时髦的人,社会人士,没有特定,目标人群范围很广.我们的价格也是很有竞争力,大部分也只卖一件.

R: Maybe...I mean it's all about me (laughs). Well, us!!也许...都是关于我(大笑).是我们!

R: Yes I bought in small quantities to test the ground. As I said, 798 is not really a destination for fashion and retail. I just want to bring in some designers that are known in fashion circles in Europe and the States but yet in China and do a small edit, and gauge the reaction from the customers and friends.是的我进货量很少,是想先做测试.我说过,798并不是时尚和零售集中地.我想介绍一些在欧洲和美国时尚圈里著名的设计师到中国先做一个测试,看看顾客和朋友的反馈意见.

Q: What designers?
什么设计师？

R: A real mix, for example Bless from Germany, Ato from Japan, Antik Batik from Paris, Tom Scott from New York, Chinese designers Zhang Da and Qiu Hao, Senada Theory from Thailand, Henrik Vibskov from Denmark to name a few...

德国的Bless，日本的Ato，巴黎的Antik Batik，纽约的Tom Scott，中国的Zhang Da 和Qiu Hao，泰国的Senada Theory ，丹麦的Henrik Vibskov,先举这些例子...

R: I found the only two I feel come with a point of originality. You know with a kind of intellectual not just a commercial process, which is the problem with a lot of designers in China.我知道的有2个原创的设计师.你知道,是有创意,而不是纯商业设计,在中国的很多设计师都会出现这个问题.

R: Qiu Hao, who I took to Paris last year and won the Woolmark Prize. A very important prize: Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Dolce & Gabbana, Donna Karen have all won that prize...It's a big international design prize for young designers. Qiu Hao was the first designer from mainland China to win such a major prize.

Then Zhang Da from Shanghai who is a very clever wise guy with a Japanese / Martin Margiela spin sometimes, but definitely more conceptual than a lot of designers. It's very much his look.Qiu Hao,我去年带到巴黎,获得了Woolmark奖.非常重要的一个奖项:伊夫圣罗兰,卡尔·拉格菲尔德,杜嘉班纳,唐纳.凯伦都获得过这个奖项..这是一个年轻设计师的知名国际设计大奖.Qiu Hao是第一个获得这个奖项的中国大陆设计师.还有来自上海的张达也是很聪明,他的设计有时带有日本风格,他比很多设计师更有想法.

There are a couple in London that I am interested in, they are still in design school and they are from the Chinese Mainland. They  starting to generate a lot of press as well, even though they are still in school.还有我在伦敦很感兴趣的一对夫妇,他们来自中国大陆,还在设计学院学习.他们虽然还在学校,但是已经开始参与很多媒体活动. 

R: They have a point of difference. They're not just coming from a commercial point of view. They're experimental and dare to think out of the box.他们和别人不同.他们不仅仅从商业的角度考虑.他们非常有探索精神,并且敢跳出常规思维.

R: Not sure about Zhang Da but I know Qiu Hao studied at Saint Martins in London which is one of the most renowned schools for fashion. They have a western point of view but they are still strongly rooted in China.  They're groovy and they explore. 我不知道张达,但是Qiu Hao 在伦敦的圣.马丁斯学习过,这个学校也是时尚界最有名的学校之一.他们受西方思想影响,但是仍然扎根于中国.他们具有创新精神.

Q: In Beijing are you going around and visiting other designers, are you in touch with the young designer scene here?

在北京您有没有拜访别的设计师,特别是年轻的设计师?

R: No. No. I used to be in touch with them. I used to follow. I should get back onto that. I am interested to see what young kids do, but unfortunately it's still a bit early. But yeah, I'm always on the lookout for whos around, whos next.没有,没有.我过去和他们保持着联系.我想我现在也应该这么做.我很对年轻的孩子们在干什么很感兴趣,但是现在还有点过早,不过我时刻都在关注.

Q: What about the Chinese customer understand the point of view on fashion that you have?

中国的顾客能理解您对时尚的观点吗?

R:No. [laughs] My friends do. But the average customer? More and more they do. I mean they have internet, they travel, they travel alot more than they used to do. They are a lot more fashion savvy than they were four of five years ago and with that they're becoming increasingly adventurous.不.我的朋友们理解.但是一般的顾客?越来越多的人理解.我的意思是他们有网络,他们有更多的旅游机会.他们更热衷时尚,更具有冒险精神. 

Q: Isn't there an education process that you have to go through?       Chinese  aesthetic has often been likened to "No Style". What do you think about that?

R: Yeah, in general. It's a process. There's a lot of bad fashion here. There's an education process that has to happen here but I'm not going to do it! [laugh]. The designers I bring are not well known here, but they are well known in Europe and in the States, so there is an education process that has to happen here. Take people through the collection, explaining it to them is part of the process. And I have done that so the customer starts to see it in a different way. A piece of cloth hanging on a hanger without a story, is just a piece of cloth. It's not Gorgio Armani which has an image already attached to it most people are familiar with. 总的来说,是这样的.需要一个过程.在这里有很多不好的时尚,需要有一个教育的过程,但是我不会去负责这个工作.我带来的设计师在这里并不出名,但是在欧洲和美国很有名.让人们参观展览,给他们做解释是教育的一个部分.我已经在这样做了,顾客们也在以一种全新的方式来看待.一件挂在衣架上的没有故事的衣服,只是一件衣服.这不是一件已经有人们已经熟悉的阿玛尼的形象.

Q: Don't you think that the majority of customers here in China are just looking for "cheap price"? Or big names? We keep hearing they only want famous brands--you can only bring in famous brands to China and be successful? Because the Chinese customer is a little bit Russian style where they show that they have money.

R:  Bling. They love the bling. But you know that's not me and I know that my niche is small. 

But I think it's a growing niche. And I think that people do want to be different; want to be unique, to stand out. People increasingly do want to have alternatives and there ought to be alternatives to the tried-and-tested high end and high street. I think that you can wear Louis Vuitton with any of the pieces that I have, or you can wear H&M with any of the pieces that I have. You can dress it up, you can dress it down. Again, I think that's the style process that has to be relayed.人们还是希望有不同,希望独特,希望能够突出.人们希望有更多的选择.我想你可以穿路易斯.威登搭配我这里的任意衣服,你也可以穿H&M,搭配我的衣服.可以随意的上下搭配,我想就是时尚发展的过程.

in 1994 I came here to study Chinese. I survived BCLU University about a week but stayed a year hanging out with the artists, being part of the scene here drinking cheap Chinese vodka and slamming tequilas in Maximes - a lot of fun and no fashion! Absolutely no fashion!! We were all dressed very badly. We all found things in markets and we had a sort of patchwork of really bad Chinese clothes. But it was a 90's Beijing style and somehow it worked! It was appropriate, Beijing back then was a very different city. Now of course it's very cosmopolitan. 第一次我来是在90年代.在1994年,我来这里是学汉语,我在BCLU大学学了一周,然后和艺术家们混了一年,喝中国伏特加,很有意思,但是一点都不时尚.绝对没有时尚!我们都穿的很糟糕.我们在街上市场里买很糟糕的衣服,但是那是在90年代的北京,那会还行.那会的北京不一样,但是现在是个非常现代化的都市.

Q: Do you think it is too late? Anybody coming in now--it's too late to do anything?

您认为现在是不是太晚了？如果想来中国-一切还来得及吗？

R: No! No. There's lots to be done! Lots to be done. Lots to educate. Lots of gaps that need filling. Lots to collaborate on.还有很多事情可做,很多需要教育的东西,很多需要添满的空隙,还需要很多合作.

360Fashion interviews Lu Liu, founder of the Lu 12.28 brand in Bejing, China. 360Fashion asks questions such as, where does the name of your brand come from? where did you study? what is the silhouette? and more...

360时尚网络在北京专访Lu 12.28 品牌的创始人刘璐.360时尚问了她一些比如品牌名称的来源,以及在哪里学习等等问题......

Be sure to tune in to China Travel Channel at 9pm this Saturday night (in China) or 9:40am on the following morning to see the first of Rizzoli China's "Creative Living" Milan episodes featuring 360Fashion members. 360Fashion organized interviews with fashion designers, photographers, and fashionable places during design fashion week in Milan, Italy, for Rizzoli China's "Creative Living" program.

360Fashion: What is happening now in China with fashion?
360时尚：现在中国时尚业发展是什么现状？

Brian Zhang: "There is old Chinese saying, "the first bird who stand out will get shot!" which means don't be different--''that keeps 1.3 billion people in line for almost centuries. Back in 60's, people [in China] dressed the same color white shirt black pants. Same hair cut. Until the 70's when there were movies brought in from Hong Kong--there were jeans and tight pants with wide open at the end... 80's when we found leather, then Nylon, and today people don't want to be the same, but diversified. Fashion to me is not just a sale pitch motivating consumers being sold on ideas to follow and compete, but to free people to express themselves and be who they are. We're unique creatures.

中国有句俗语叫枪打出头鸟，意思就是不要标新立异-这种思想长期影响着中国13亿人口。回到60年代，当时的人们衣服颜色是一样，白衬衣，黑裤子。同样的发型。直到70年代，香港电影里的牛仔裤，下摆很宽的紧身裤。。。80年代，有了皮草，尼龙。今天的人们不想保持不变，他们追求多元化。时尚对于我来说不仅仅是卖衣服，更重要的是解放大家的思想，让人们自由的去表达自己，我们每个人都有自己的个性。

Fashion is meaning to be liberated, a fundamental revolution of life and total freedom."

Quote from Brian Zhang at the FIRS fashion show.
"时尚就是解放，对生活的根本革新和完全的自由。"

引自Brian Zhang 在杉杉时装秀的采访内容